Ουζερί ο Κάκιας

Although Salamina is essentially a stone's throw from Athens. Greek flavors with a maritime character that are worth the trip

If a foodie friend of yours suggests «let's go for good fish at Kakia's in Salamina,» you'll likely look at them with surprise or even a bit of disbelief. The truth is, leaving downtown Athens, getting to Perama, and taking the ferry to Salamina sounds a bit like an excursion. Maybe it is.

But if you take the trouble to Google it, you'll see that it takes about an hour to get to Salamina, specifically to Kaki. That's the same amount of time it would take you to get to Agios Stefanos. This is for the skeptics and for those who consider any travel a great hassle.

Kakias is not a restaurant you casually decide to go to if you live in the center or in the northern suburbs. Unless you live in Piraeus or somewhere near Salamina, then there's no question, it's more than worth it. However, even if you are further away, Kakias can easily become a pleasant destination for a good meal on a Saturday or Sunday. Unfortunately, in Athens, we have ended up ignoring Salamina (just as we do with the Acropolis), simply because it is «next door.» And that is wrong.

Why all this preamble? Why isn't good fish no longer a given, and every time we find a truly good option, it's worth supporting it.

Nikos Dimitriadis, the soul of the restaurant, a native of Salamina and a child of the sea from his father, deeply loved his homeland. Thus, he decided to open a place that would honor his maritime tradition, «in the ancestral home,» as the old-timers would say. This is how Kakiás was born, with respect for the island and the sea forming a core part of its identity. And this respect is evident: whatever you try comes from the seas of the region or the island itself.

If you love shellfish, you'll find a plethora of delicacies, and even oysters from France where necessary. For those who follow modern trends, there are also raw options: excellent roe herring, crayfish tartare, and ceviche. You will also find squid and cuttlefish cooked in various ways, all from Koulouri. Naturally, there are also shrimp and crayfish in many variations, and the fish display is always set up as it should be.

Kakias is ideal for either a rich, flavor-filled meal or for seafood mezedes accompanied by ouzo or tsipouro from their extensive collection. And if you eventually decide to visit, it's almost certain you'll want to return.